MONARCH/GRANADA FRONT DISC BRAKE INSTALL

Every 62-63 Meteor owner has had a scare or two when a sudden stop was needed. The stock front drum brakes just aren't up to the task in today's fast moving traffic, but there is a solution: Installing 1970's Monarch/Granada front disc brakes on your Meteor.

My car will have manual front disc brakes. This swap will cost you around $500 (CDN Funds) if you replace everything but the spindles with new parts.

  My car has manual steering but I'm working on getting detailed info on this upgrade concerning a 62-63 Meteor with power steering. The tie rod holes in the 1979 Monarch/Granada spindles are bigger than my stock Meteor tie rod ends so a specific set of tie rod ends is required ( MOOG part# ES379RL or NAPA part # 269-2196 ) . 

I bought a set of 1979 Monarch/Granada front disc brake spindles and the rims from the same car. I will be using a 1979 Monarch/Granada cylinder for manual front disc brakes, 1979 Monarch/Granada 11" rotors, pads and  brake hoses. 

My first step was to sandblast the spindles and paint them along with the new calipers, master cylinder and tie rod ends. Do not sandblast the running surface of the spindle where the rotor/hub mounts up.

The next step is to remove the old spindle/hub and brake assembly. Install the new Granada spindle, tighten the ball joint nuts to spec  - 60-80 ft-lbs and re-install the cotter pin. Next, remove the stock tie rod end and install the new tie rod end. Be sure to measure the old tie rod end from the sleeve to the center of the stud so you can install the new one at the same length. This will make the alignment close until you can have it checked at a repair shop.

The rotor is next, pack the new bearings in grease, install the inner bearing in the hub and install the inner grease seal. Place the rotor on the spindle, install the outer bearing, keyed washer and spindle nut. Tighten the nut while rotating the the hub in the clockwise direction until there is slight resistance in the bearings. Back the nut off one flat and check to make sure the rotor spins freely and that it has no end play. Install the cotter pin next and the dust cap.

Now its time for the pads and caliper. Install the "squeal" clip on the top end of the inner pad and set it in its groove in the spindle. Install the outer pad in the caliper and set the caliper in the spindle. Place the spring/wedge in the lower groove on the spindle, push up on the caliper and drive the wedge in. Put some never-seize on the retaining bolt and install it. Re-check all the ball-joint nuts and tie-rod ends, bleed the brakes and your ready for a road test.

UPDATE: APRIL 25TH, 2004

HERE'S THE FINISHED PICTURES!!!

As you can see, its time to re-paint the suspension.